crispy salt and pepper soft shell crabs

This light, crispy preparation is one of the best ways to celebrate soft shell crabs while they are in season.

6 soft shell crabs, cleaned, halved
1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots (from 2 large shallots)
1 cup thinly sliced red and green hot chilies (such as thai chilies, red jalapenos, serranos, and habanero)
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/3 cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons chinese rice wine (shaoxing) or sake
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt, plus more to taste
3 egg whites
1 cup cornstarch
4 cups peanut oil
12 scallions, whites and pale green parts cut into 1-inch pieces, green parts thinly sliced
5 dried red chiles

Arrange crab halves in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with kitchen towels. Chill, uncovered, to let dry slightly, 2 to 3 hours.
Combine shallots, chiles, soy sauce, chicken stock, rice wine, sugar, ginger, and garlic in a medium bowl.
Line another baking sheet with a few layers of paper towels. Combine sugar, pepper, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in a small bowl. Place egg whites in a wide shallow bowl; whisk lightly to loosen. Place cornstarch in a second wide shallow bowl. Heat peanut oil over medium-high heat in a large wok to 375°F. Dip crab pieces in egg whites to coat, then dredge in cornstarch. Working in 2 batches, lift crabs from cornstarch, shaking off excess, and fry in oil until crispy, 2 to 4 minutes, turning once. Transfer to paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Transfer 2 tablespoons of oil from wok to a large skillet. Heat over high heat. When smoking, add scallion whites, chiles, and crabs. Toss to coat, sprinkling the sugar mixture over as you toss, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a platter and garnish with scallion greens. Serve with dipping sauce.

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