This classic pork roast from Tuscany is flavored throughout with heady garlic and rosemary. Our rendition includes a few innovations that might not be a part of traditional Italian recipes, but helps ensure delicious results: We use a bone-in roast, cut the meat off the rib bones, brown the meat, season it with a garlic-rosemary paste, and then tie the meat back onto the ribs, which serve as a sort of roasting rack that protects the meat as its cooks.
At the outset, we brine the pork, which produces a succulent, well-seasoned roast. Because pork loin is best roasted in a moderately low oven (that won’t do much for surface browning), we sear the roast in a hot skillet before putting it into the oven. This way, the pork is sure to emerge with a deeply browned and crisped surface.
Though not traditionally served, the ribs that were once attached to the roast are rich with flavor. If you’d like to serve them alongside slices of the roast or enjoy them for yourself, increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees, untie the roast and remove the loin as directed, then scrape off the excess garlic-rosemary paste from the ribs, set them on a rimmed baking sheet, and return them to the oven for about 20 minutes, until they are brown and crisp. Slice in between bones and serve.
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